Hiking in the hills of Sesto

Early Sunday morning I went on a hike in the hills of Sesto Fiorentino with Hafiza, an artist born and raised in Firenze. She often does this hike through olive groves and cypress forests and we walked various trails up the hills and back down, completing the journey in four (4!) hours.





There are many shrines in these hills. At one point in our hike a motorino (scooter) passed us. As we arrived at this shrine we found the gentleman placing flowers on the shrine and saying a prayer. Then he placed his helmet back on, got back on his motorino and descended the hill. I like to imagine he does this every Sunday.



The olive trees are blossoming. I felt like I was in a E.M. Forster novel while wandering these olive groves.



We found fragoline (strawberries) on the trail, which were tiny, but ripe to eat and so sweet! And along the top of the hill we made our way on narrow trails through a pine-scented forest of cyprese (cypress), an experience not unlike hiking a trail in the California redwoods. Ok, maybe the trees aren't so tall here.



The red poppies are in bloom. And they're more difficult to photograph than I imagined. They are so lightweight that they sway in the mildest breeze.




Related links:
> Map of Sesto Fiorentino for the geographically challenged

Nespole: I think they're loquats

The beautiful tree in our cortile (courtyard) is full of fruit. Ethan climbed it for our afternoon snack. I think they're loquats. (Note: Cristina emailed me the Italian name for the fruit, nespole. Grazie!)





We've been working on an engraving technique using a burin (bulino) on rame (copper). For this technique in particular I find the light outside to be preferable. This is my makeshift workstation, adorned with my loquat snack.

Random list

1. Rosbif on a menu means roast beef.
2. I have ridden the bus in this city approximately twice every weekday since January. They have only asked me to see a validated ticket once. (Yes, I had a validated ticket at that time.)
3. An alternate means of transportation, the motorino, has proven to be much more fun and you don't need a validated ticket.
4. My permesso di soggiorno (permit to stay) is still in progress. I have been here since January.
5. Nutella is quite possibly the official 'peanut butter' of Italy.

Umbria: The Doors of Spello

We found the people of Spello to be quite friendly and the city itself to be quite photogenic. This is my series of door photos, which I collected on a walk with Dad through the town.

Umbria: Spello

We departed Orvieto for Spello. On the road we came across a hilltown we decided to visit, Todi. Ascending a winding road in the Volvo took some time and it was quite fun for me to drive the zigzags. We found ourselves in the middle of a bustling town atop this steep hill. We couldn't help but wonder if the residents stay up there all the time or if they come down very often. After a leisurely lunch we took our caffé in a bar on Piazza Garibaldi. Dad was checking out a real estate magazine and the (tall and handsome) barista asked if we were looking for a house. We said something like "not really". He preceded to describe the house he happens to have for sale, with a hectare and a giardino and many rooms. If we wanted to see it, we could. Smooth operator, this guy was! He also mentioned the house where he rents rooms to tourists. After we left the bar we discussed his actual profession. We think the bar is his 'office' and he 'gets things'. There's a film titled "Operation Petticoat" starring Cary Grant and Tony Curtis where they're trying to operate a lemon of a submarine during the war. The Cary Grant character asks the Tony Curtis character "What do you do?". He replies, "I get things." If I ever need anything in Umbria, I know which bar to take a caffé in. Troppo bello!

We also made a gelato stop in Deruta, a town famed for its ceramiche (ceramics). It's quite overwhelming to see so many shops, and so many works in each of the shops. If you're looking to find a full set of dinnerware, or a unique platter or vase, I'd highly recommend a trip to Deruta. Mom found an exquisite plate, a geometric design reproduced from the 14th century. The price was surprisingly reasonable given the quality of the craftsmanship.

Allora... Spello. Una bella citta. We drove up into it's narrow streets and found our hotel quite easily thanks to the signs that lead the way. Palazzo Bocci is a beautiful hotel where we were presented with another lovely suite with two rooms and a view of the Umbrian valley. We checked in and received our parking pass for the parcheggio (parking lot) behind the church. I was greeted there by two Umbrian cats napping in the early evening sun. The buildings of Spello are built with a pink-tinted stone, which in the light of the evening casts a pinkish-golden tone over the entire city. Assisi has the same appearance and this aesthetic is one of my favorite things about Umbria.









Related links:
> Spello
> Hotel Palazzo Bocci
> Ristorante Il Molino

Andiamo al mare

The weather on Sunday was perfect for beachgoing. We hopped on an early train to Livorno where Tommy met us and took us to a pasticceria (pastry shop) for caffe and warm, tasty brioche before heading to the 'sea'.

This concept of the 'sea' is a new one for me, as I'm an 'ocean' girl. The water was blue and warm and I can't express how good it felt to dive in for a swim.



Here is a post-dive photo where I admittedly appear ridiculously happy. And I learned that Mexican beer is readily available on the Mediterranean, however it is served senza (without) a lime wedge.


Homework can be done at the beach. Note the book which is a catalog of Marc Chagall etchings and lithographs, currently on exhibit in a gallery in Livorno.


I'm considering using this image of eroded sandstone for an etching project.


Consumption of refreshing Sicilian granitas followed the 'sea' adventures.


Before returning to Firenze, we took a siesta at Tommy's with a variety of furry and not-so furry friends.

The 80s are alive and rockin' (in Prato)

(Note: I'm going to take a quick break from the Toscana and Umbria tour to post some things we've been doing the past week. I'll get back to more of the parental travels soon after.)

Our resident hard rock fan, Adria, is celebrating her birthday this week, so a group of us decided to take her to a concert in Prato last Thursday night. We also planned to get 'dolled up' in appropriate fashion for the occasion. As it was a Thursday night we brought our outfits and makeup to the scuola and after classes had ended for the day we turned a couple of rooms into dressing rooms. It felt like our own twisted version of prom, as our professors and the other students all waited around to see the final result. They all approved (although now that I look at the photos I'm not sure why!) and everyone accompanied us to the socialist bar for pre-show drinks, biliardino (table soccer), and good wishes. Even the segretaria accompanied us to the bar to ensure Tommy had good enough directions to get to the venue in Prato.


The boys played some particularly competitive biliardino this evening.


Yes, I agree that we girls collectively look ridiculous in this picture, but I've never seen Tommy look so happy.


Driving through Prato we realized the segretaria's directions were incorrect, but we found the venue all the same. I was greeted by some friends I've made over the past couple of months, 'Sketch Daniels', 'Zip' and 'Diego'. These guys are musicians and clubgoers here in Italy, and they have names to go with their personas. It's fascinating that the 80s still live somewhere, and not on the Sunset Strip, but in a Florentine suburb.

Here are the Bulletboys in their current lineup. I frequented their concerts back in Los Angeles – many, many years ago. Marq's in great shape and has maintained his vocal strength. The touring band members are consummate rock pros.




Los Angeles rock club legends, Faster Pussycat, were the headlining act.


Here's a classic: I'm sipping a Birra Moretti wearing a cowboy hat and blue mascara. Not to worry, I guarantee you this vision will not reappear anytime soon!


A fun time was had by all. I think we were even home by 3am. We work hard and play hard.

Umbria: Orvieto

Orvieto is a city I've wanted to visit for many years. We made reservations for a hotel near the Duomo and I'll always remember driving the Volvo through the city streets the first evening, turning a narrow street corner to arrive upon the Duomo's golden pink-tinted facade. If there's an award for Best Duomo Facade in Italy, this one wins, hands down. And the Luca Signorelli affreschi (frescoes) were beyond stunning. Another precursor to the Sistine Chapel and a grand example of the church vividly illustrating hell and all things related, to generate fear amongst its followers. Brilliantly done, mates.


A classmate of mine has opened his own print studio in Orvieto. We went to visit him in his laboratorio. He specializes in a photo-lithography process reproducing antique prints, and adds color with aquarello (watercolor). This is an example of one of his works and a photo of his Bendini press from Bologna. It was great seeing Andrea again after he's been away from Firenze for a month and I look forward to meeting up with him again in Roma in a few weeks. He's so talented and it's cool to watch him develop into a professional artisan, that is, when he's not playing basket (basketball).




Il pozzo di San Patrizio (St. Patrick's Well) is a deep well that was built in 1527 to supply water to Orvieto in the event of siege. The ingenious design of the well has opposing doors that lead to spiraling staircases down to the water, built in such a way that those descending with their mules would never meet those ascending in the opposite direction. We enjoyed this quasi-spelunking adventure.





Dad took this photo on his morning walk. Can't blame him, really.



Related links:
> Orvieto
> Il Pozzo San Patrizio